Chengannur a Taluk Headquarters is at a distance of 12 KMs from Pandalam my home. The temple is about 1 KM from the railway station as well as bus stand Chengannur. The temple is a famous for the festival "Tiruppoth aarattu" (menses) of the Devi.
My mother was a frequent visitor to the temple. She used to feel something wrong if not visited periodically. Even after leaving Pandalam it was customary to pray at the temple for me when I go over on vacation or other purposes.
The specialty is the Devi and Deva are housed in the same sanctum circular in shape with a middle separation wall. In the southern side of the wall there is door through which priest move between the two deities. The Devi is more important in the temple, still the temple is named Mahadevar temple. The temple is about 500 meters from main road, and the road is steep. The temple is about 30 feet above ground level.
Gopala krishnan 26-09-09
Reposted on 27-7-2020 after editing and updating information. R. Gopala krishnan
1 Introduction
Chengannur Mahadevar Temple is one of the oldest and famous temples, situated in Allappuzha dist. (Kerala). It is a sprawling temple complex with a circular Sanctum. Lord Shiva and Parvathi Devi are the main deities of this temple. Lord Shiva is facing East and Devi is facing West. Devi's main Idol is made with an alloy of five metals (PANCHALOHAM). The Shivalingam is covered with a gold plate bearing an image of Ardhanareeswara - or the Shiva-Shakti manifestation of Shiva.The other sub-deities of the temple are Ganapathi, Sasta, Chandikeswaran, Neelagrivan, Ganga, and Naagar. There is also a shrine of Sree Krishna nearby.
My note- So it was the period river deities Ganaga and Yamuna took position as idols in the temple.
2 Legend about construction
The temple was constructed centuries back in accordance with an architectural design evolved by the famous Perunthachan. In the 18th Century the temple complex was damaged by fire and renovated later by Vanghipuzha Thampuran. The mukhamandapam in front of the temple and other mandapams in this temple are full of exquisite woodwork.
Compared to other temples, this temple has a peculiarity of its own, quiet distinct from other temples. The interesting belief and festival of this Temple is TRIPUTHARATTU, which is considered as a symbol of fertility. This festival is connected with a menstruation ceremony of the Goddess, which is observed periodically in the temple. That is why this temple is also considered as Shakthi Peetam.
3. Legend about the temple deity
The story about the temple deity is related with Dakshayagam story. Lord Siva took the dead body of Sathi Devi and danced. Knowing the pathetic condition of Shiva, Lord Vishnu with a view to console Siva using his Sudharsana chakra cut off the corpse of Sathi Devi into a number of pieces. The parts of the dead body fell in different places of earth. Out of these the loins (Arakkettu) of Devi is said to have fallen here in Chengannur. The Kamakhya Temple in Assam also holds the same legend.
4. Legend from Ithihyamala
If I re collect the information about many temples I got by reading Ithihya mala by Kottarathil Sankunni variyar from my home Library. I am having a copy comprising all volumes in my bookshelf.
Years passed. On the occasion of marriage of Lord Siva with Parvathi The Trimoorthies desired sage Agasthya to go and sit on shronadri, Southern bank of Pamba River to Prevent the Earth from sinking to northern side due to the weight of all invitees who came to attend the marriage. Though sage Agasthya conceded the request he expressed his concern about loosing the chance of attending the marriage.
After the marriage on this account Lord Shiva and Devi came to meet sage Agasthya at shronadri. Then Devi became Rithu (menstruated). Devi remained there till the period of menstruation was over. The place where sage Agasthya meditated is known as shronadri in Sanskrit and in Malayalam it is Chen kunnu (Red hill). Later it is called as Chen Kunnu Urru (Urru means place) and it has been abbreviated and called as Chengannur.
The legend of Agastya's vision of the divine marriage is associated with several temples in Tamilnadu such as Kutralam near Tirunelveli and Vedaranyam on the east coast also.
5. Reference to Silapathikaram
Years passed Kannaki, who is said to be an incarnation of Devi Sathi, after killing Pandya raja, who killed her husband, came to Chengannur and performed penance at the top of a hill. While Devi was meditating her husband Kovalan appeared before her and they together went to Heaven.
The people who were living in the valley of that hill saw Devi meditating there several times. In Silapathikaram the place where Devi meditated is mentioned as Chen Kunnu. (ref: Page 62)
The place where the Chengannur temple is situated was said to be under the control of Vanghipuzha Thampuran.
This place was leased to one Naraya Pillai. One day while the maid servant (Kurathi) of Nayanaru Pillai, was working in this place, she saw blood coming from a stone on which she was sharpening her working arrival. This fact was reported to Nayanaru Pillai and Vanghipuzha Thampuran.
Vanghipuzha Thampuran on the advice of Thazhaman Potty showered 32 para (measurement in Malayalam) of Neyi (Ghee) on that stone in order to stop the blood.
The Thampuran in consultation with Thazhaman Potti and other veteran Brahmins decided to construct a temple there.
The plan was made by Perunthachan, a famous and respected Thachan (carpenter).(My note- Members may be recollecting Malayalam film Perumthachan acted by Tilakan) .
The whole kuthambalam was constructed under the guidance of Perunthachan. On completion of the construction of temple and kuthambalam the Thampuran requested Perunthachan to make an idol of Devi. He pointed out a place and asked the workers to dig that place. On digging an idol of Parvathi Devi was found and this idol has investiture at the nearest auspicious occasion.
After some years Perunthachan visited the place again and informed Thazhaman Potty that the temple would be destroyed in fire in due course and Idol of Devi would be destroyed.
He also gave an Idol of Devi made up of an alloy of five metals (Panchaloham) and asked him to keep a record of what he said. The Potty did accordingly. After some years the prediction of Perunthachan becomes true.
The temple was renovated after the fire and Devi's Idol had been taken from the river with the help of some fishermen (Arayas) of Karunagappalli, as recorded in the Grandha written by Thazhaman Potty. As a mark of joy thampuran gave fruits and tender coconuts to those arayas at the temple. This happened on a Shivarathri and now also this day is celebrated with the same tradition.
7. Customs-The Oath at Padinjare (Western) Nada
In early days there was a belief and custom related to a hole in the western gopuram (entrance) of this temple. The belief was that if anybody makes a false oath by putting his hand in that hole would be bitten by a holy snake.
The story related to this belief is like this. There was a Brahmin family named "Muringoor" in Chengannur and were very famous for 'Visha chikitsa". They were the deep devotees of Chengannur Devi. Their name spread all over Kerala and southern part of India.
One day an 'Alwar' came to Chengannur and his main aim was to challenge and conquer the Muringoor family. At that time a boy of 12 years was the only male person of Muringoor family. He was not able to accept the challenge of this Alwar. So he became very sad and prayed to Chengannur Devi. On that day, he got a vision in his dream telling that there is a brass pipe inside the 'Ara', which contains a snake. This snake would be under the control of boy and move according to his wish. He took this pipe in front of the Alwar and asked him to take the snake out with his magical power. The Alwar tried his best to control the snake but failed. The snake now become furious and tried to attack the Alwar. The Alwar pleaded the boy to control the snake and the boy controlled the snake with his praying and sealed it again in that pipe. Later the boy made a hole on the walls of Western Gopura and put the holy snake into that hole. He told the people that if anybody tells a lie by putting his hand in this hole, will be bitten by the snake.
8. Thriputharattu
Thriputharattu is the famous and interesting festivals of this temple. It is quiet extra ordinary and only celebrated in this temple. This festival is connected with a menstruation ceremony, which is observed periodically in the temple.
The sign is observed on the vesture (UDAYADA) of Devi. This vesture is removed by the Main Priest (Melsanthi) every morning and examines. If he feels any signs of Thriputhu (Period) he hands over the vesture to Devaswam Officials.
This should be got confirmed by the abbess (senior women) of the Thazhaman and Vanghipuzha convents (Madam). If it is confirmed by the abbess, Devi's shrine will be closed and worships will be offered to a processional image in a different shrine else where in the temple.
On the fourth day of the festival the Devi's Idol is taken to the nearby river and Arrattu is conducted. This Arrattu is known as Thriputharattu. After this Devi is taken back to the temple on an elephant. When the procession reaches Nalambalam (In front of the main Entrance), Bhagvan will be waiting there on an elephant in a procession. They together encircle the temple three rounds (PRADAKSHINAM) around the temple with procession. After that Lord Shiva will lead to the shrine through Eastern side and Devi will lead to the shrine.
The udayada, after the occurrence, is available for sale to the public. Though the rate fixed by the Devaswom is only Rs. 10/- due to it's being a rarity it is grabbed by devotees by paying hundreds of rupees, booking it well in advance.
Among the dignitaries who bought this, we are told, are the late Sir C. P. Ramaswami Iyyar and ex-President Shri V. V. Giri.
My note- The auction amount may be in lakhs now-
Two weeks after my son's marriage we had been to Chengannur temple in 2001. At that time it was Tiruppoth time. We worshipped under Kotimaram. I keep a photograph of the display board of the tiruppoth as treasure.
8.1 Story of Col. Munro
Skeptics may scoff at all this, but this is what happened to those who did so: Colonel Munro was the Resident-Divan of Travancore during the reign of Rani Laxmi Bai (1810-14). It was he who organized the takeover of almost all the temples in Travancore by the Government.
Once in this connection he was camping at Chengannur with his family. While checking the temple accounts to regulate the various expenses he came across the items against Triputtu. He could not help laughing at the naivety of the people. "How can a metal deity get its Periods?" he mused. "It is not only absurd but also obscene," he said and cut out the budget provision for the ritual with a stroke of his pen.
At the same time the Devi had her period. For the first time the ceremonies connected with it were suspended. The people felt disappointed. But the Colonel also learnt his lesson.
His wife started to have heavy blooding and their children took ill. So serious they became that it is on record that the maharani of Trivandrum made solicitous enquiries about their health through a letter sent with a special messenger. Munro's clerk conducted a secret prasnam, which revealed the wrath of the deity. He advised his master accordingly.
Munro repented for his thoughtless action and made an amends by not only restoring the expenses for the fun but also by himself donating a sum of Rs. 706/- for celebration of the first Triputtu of every year. This still continues. Needless to say that his wife and children recovered from their illness.
9.Yearly Festivals
9.1. Main Festival (Varshikotsavam)
The 28 Days long Annual festival is the specialty of this temple. The main ultsavam (Annual festival) begins on 'Thiruvathira' of 'Dhanu'(month in Malayalam Era) and ends on 'Thiruvathira' of 'Makaram'. Special poojas would be there during these days. This festival attracts thousands of people from different locations in Kerala and also outside the state.
Normally most temples in Kerala temples will have 10 days festivals only.
9.2. Shivaratri
Shivrathri is another important festival of this temple. Shivrathri is an important day for all devotees of lord Shiva. A large crowd assembles here in this festival. Arayas of Alappattu in Karunagappalli comes here on this day and performs poojas and vazhipads. This custom was started centuries before in connection with the renovation of the temple.
9.3. Thula samkrama Neyyattu (Ghee Abhishekam)
This holy event is conducted on every 1st day of Thulam (month in Malayalam Era). On this day 32 paras (measurement in Malayalam) of Neyy (Ghee) will be showered on the 'Shivalingam'. This tradition was started in connection with the finding of the Shiva lingam. The ghee is collected from devotees and normally gets more than hundreds of 'Paras' as offerings.
9.4. Chitra Pournami
1. Kunnathumala Mahadeva Temple.
This temple is considered as the 'Moolasthanam' of the Chengannur Mahadeva temple. It is situated very near to the Mahadeva temple in north side.
2. Aranmula Sreekrishna Temple.
The famous 'Parthasarathi' temple on the banks of the holy river Pampa is dedicated to Lord Krishna attracts large number of devotees.
This temple is the most famous one among the Pancha Pandava temples. The image of Krishna in this temple is believed to be worshiped by Arjuna of pandavas.
The river Pampa at Aranmula is the venue of the famous snake boat race. Aranmula Sreekrishna/Parthasarathi Temple is 8kms from Chengannur.
There is a procession from Aranmula with separate Tiruvabharanam for Mandala pooja(If my remembrance is correct)
3. Sabarimala Ayyappa Temple.
Sabarimala is a renowned pilgrim centre atop the rugged hills of the Western Ghats. This holy shrine is dedicated to Lord Ayyappa. The sanctum sanctorum nestles 914 m above sea level, amidst the virgin forest wilderness of the Western Ghats. The main pilgrimage is undertaken between November and January. Regardless of caste, creed, colour, they wear black dhotis and carry on their heads, bundles containing traditional offerings like coconut filled with ghee, camphor and rice.
Chengannur is declared as the main Edathavalam of Sabarimala Pilgrimage by Travancore Devaswom Board. Most of the pilgrims passing through Chengannur visit Chengannur Mahadeva Temple.
Chengannur railway station is the nearest station to reach Sabarimala. Chengannur to Pamba (Via Aranmula) is 93 Kms Pampa to Sannidhanam (Via Neelimala - Appachimedu - Sabaripeedom) is approx 7 Kms
4. Puliyoor Sreekrishna Temple.
The famous Puliyoor Sreekrishna swami temple situated in the Chengannur - Mavelikkara road via Cheriyanad is only 4 Kms away from Chengannur Mahadeva Temple. The main deity of this temple is Sreekrishna and is one of the sacred Pancha Pandava Temples. The image of Krishna in this temple is believed to be worshiped by Bhima of Pandavas.
5 Thiruvanvandoor Sreekrishna Temple.
Situated on the banks of Manimala and Pamba rivers, Thiruvanvandoor is a famous Hindu Pligrimage centre. The Vishnu shrine here is believed to have been consecrated by the legendary Bhrigu Muni in Thiruvanvandoor. It is mentioned that this place is one of the five sacred places where the image of Vishnu was worshiped by Pandavas during their vanavasa. This temple is only 10 km away from ChengannurMahadeva Temple.
6. Thrichitat Sreekrishna Temple.
This famous temple is situated very near to the Chengannur mahadeva temple. This temple is one of the sacred Pancha Pandava temples. The image of Krishna in this temple is believed to be worshiped by 'Yudhishtira' of pandavas.
7. Thiruvalla Sreevallabhaswami Temple.
Sree Vallabha temple here is one of the important pilgrim centers of Vaishnavites all over India. Lord Vishnu is the main deity of this temple.
Kathakali is performed almost on all days in this temple as offerings by devotees. A granite pillar carved out of single piece with an image of Garuda on its top stands in front of the temple.
The pillar, which serves as a flagstaff, is 60ft high and is made of granite. It is believed that its bottom touches the water table. Sreevallabha swami temple is situated around 12 km away from Chengannur.
I am told by my parents I was born after worshipping at Sree vallbha temple by my mother. At that time my father was a cook to Educational inspector of Tiruvalla an iyer. On his transfer my father was given the post of school peon.
Though I have visited Tiruvalla many times, I have visted the temple only once in 2002 along with my inspection of exchanges. My colleague Sankaranarayanan was very specific of visiting the temple since he was retiring in the year end
8. Sasthamkulangara (Chathankulangara) Temple.
Chathankulangara in Chengannur town is known for the famous temple dedicated to Narasimha. This temple is situated very near to the Mahadeva Temple in the eastern side. The presence of elegant wood carving of artistic perfection depicting the puranic scenes connected with Sree Rama and Sree Krishna is the peculiarity of this temple.
9 Chakkulathukavu Devi Temple.
Chakkulathamma, the famous miracle worker, is housed in this temple. People from all religions are permitted to enter this temple. Lady worshippers offer "Pongala" to the Goddess on the Thrikkarthika Day of the Vrichika month.
Chakkulathucavu Temple is located near the Neerettupuram Junction on Thiruvalla - Edathuva route.
Chakkulathukavu Devi Temple is around 20 kms away from Chengannur mahadeva temple. I will write about Chakkulathu kavu temple in detail in another posting.
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